Esther, perhaps you were born for such a time as this
I first saw Victory Patterns’s Esther Trousers when they were released in late 2017 and I thought wow, but it didn’t occur to me to buy the pattern until a later date. I had previously been sewing the odd project here and there but hadn’t really thought about dedicating a frequent slot in my week to pursue projects. I can say that it’s really only been in the last one or even two years that I've become quite serious in the process of making clothes. When I decided last year that I was going to make the conscious effort of decreasing my fabric collection I went on a hunt for patterns that had previously caught my eye. I wanted to know that my year would be filled with exciting garments, ranging from easy sweaters to challenging coats.
I actually really struggled in finding this pattern again. All I could remember was that they were from an indie pattern company, that I was looking for a pair of trousers and the model wearing them was black. Yes, not really the best description of finding a sewing pattern amongst the thousands that are already out there. After searching for a few weeks I did come across them again and I’m really glad that my reaction to them was the same as when I first saw them a year ago.
Lisa Comfort’s Busy Blossom in black
As the days passed and my self imposed fabric ban was fast approaching, I started matching patterns to various fabrics that I had in my stash, allowing myself to buy additional haberdashery to meet those pattern requirements. There is nothing more frustrating then starting a project and realising that you don’t have the correct zip, button or any interfacing. I was also trying to make the process as smooth as possible whilst reducing any fabric buying temptations. I saw that Sew Over It was having a sale and Lisa Comfort’s own fabric was also on sale. Most of her fabrics were light coloured floral prints but it was her Busy Blossom in black that had caught my eye. It was described as a pretty floral fabric giving vintage florals a contemporary twist, a soft and smooth, beautiful quality cotton lawn that is perfect for making tops, skirts and dresses and, in my case, Esther Trousers.
Fast forward to the current day; so far this year I’ve made 7 unique garments which have been predominantly gifted to others and a few favourable repeats like the Helen’s Closet Blackwood Cardigan and Name’s Talvikki. But I’ve not made anything that would really push my comfort zone of colours for myself, until now. Yes you read correctly, I’ll be making a pair of loose fitting, wide leg full-length trousers in a fabric which wasn’t all about a dark colour, for myself. The Esther trousers are quite eye catching, sitting at the natural waistline with their subtle angled overlapping pleats at the front and with an invisible zip and button at the back. The combination of fabric and pattern is perfect for a hot summer day, and can even be worn for that day to night chic.
I cut a size 4 without the sash and made no alterations, apart from increasing the turn up at the bottom of the trousers as I hadn’t noticed that Esther was designed for a height range of 5'6" - 5'8" (170 cm - 176 cm). While I’m not short I definitely don’t fall into that height range even with additional height support from shoes.
I was really impressed by the clear instructions that accompanied the pattern, which even came with a glossary of terms used. The only part that maybe could cause difficulties was the finishing of the pocket edge - I would have preferred to have finished the edge after attaching the twill tape but before attaching it on to piece A (Side Front). There was also a lot of baste stitching and at one point I was sewing through 6 layers of fabric at the centre of the pleats.
Tips
I noticed in the instructions that they don’t mention about ironing the zipper teeth open, which I would recommend just to get as close as possible to the teeth edge. I also aligned my zipper edge to the edge of my overlocked seam rather than making it flush to the fabric edge, making it easier to turn the zip the right way. There is very little that I would change if I was to make another pair, I thought it was a really good project and quick to make. I would recommend not using a thick and sturdy interface as I did, which made my fabric pull at awkward places such as the waistband and pockets, but this would depend on your fabric choice. Also, try on your trousers before sewing on your waistband; I had become lazy in trying out my garments and I could have reduced the waist by an inch without interfering with the waistband. This would also let your fabric hang naturally, allowing for better shaping of the pleats.
Maybe for next time I would think about using a solid colour for the body of the fabric and a contrasting print for the pockets, which by the way are exceptionally deep and very appreciated.
