Day Trippin' in Greenwich
I picked these three sites for the day’s adventures because despite being so close to each other, they hold an array of stories from the past that are each as different as the next, but all equally wonderful.
Fan Museum
The Fan Museum is tucked away down a quiet lane of Greenwich, just off Greenwich Park and away from the main hustle and bustle. It’s easy to walk past if you aren’t looking for it. This is the UK's only museum which is devoted to the history of fans and the craft of fan-making, with a diverse collection of fans from around the world, dating from the 12th century to the present day. Split into two floors, the ground floor is their permanent collection of how and when fans came into use, while the upper floor gallery showcases changing exhibitions of various items in the collection. At the time we visited, the upper floor exhibition was focussing on the best decorative techniques of 18th century fans from both East and West, revealing the prevailing tastes of the age. There is also a beautiful orangery suitable for afternoon tea but is closed in the mornings.
Queen’s house
The Queen’s House is a beautiful, classical building that was originally commissioned as a gift from King James I to his wife, Anne of Denmark, to apologise for swearing in front of her after she had accidentally killed one of his favourite dogs during a hunt. It is now filled to the brim with an extraordinary art collection including works by Great Masters such as Gainsborough, Reynolds, Turner and Hogarth. These are shown next to contemporary artworks, many of which are the responses of modern artists to the collections and history of Greenwich. Unfortunately for us, at the time of visiting the house was under preparation for a wedding and we were only able to see the top floor and its artwork. I would most definitely go back again to see the ground floor and to photograph the amazing staircase.
Painted halls
Referred to as the ‘Sistine Chapel of the UK’, the Painted Halls at the Old Royal Naval College have reopened after a two-year conservation project which has brought its magnificent painted interior back to life. Originally designed by Sir Christopher Wren as a ceremonial dining room, it took Sir James Thornhill 19 years to complete the paintings that celebrated England’s naval power. Its vast interior extends to 4,000 square metres, a true masterpiece of English baroque art. Visitors have the choice of a multimedia guide or a tour by one of an expert team of guides. My friends took both, but I dipped in and out of the tour as I got distracted by various fine details of the walls. Within the room are plush seats which allowed visitors to sit or lie down in comfort and experience the beauty and wonder painted by Thornhill, who was also the first British artist to be knighted.
